Suva
Dr. No & Blue (Woutur helped us in)
Fiji
August 3
We arrived into Denarau, Fiji in the wee hours of the morning and dropped the hook to await space at the quarantine dock. Once there was room we were able to tie up and wait for customs, bio security and immigration. Everyone was very friendly. Little did we know that this was our first experience with some of the friendliest people that we have come across since Turkey.
August 4
The following morning we left for Musket Cove to meet up with Windancer IV. We wanted Naddia and Manuel to be able to say farewell to John and Ziggy before they headed back to Germany to start their new adventures. Musket Cove is a lovely spot and well worth the effort. It has a tricky entrance that is best attempted when the weather is calm.
We arrived when there was quite a swell and the wind was quite high. Not the best weather to be coming into the tight entrance. We managed to navigate through the reef and made it to the anchorage. This is a fairly tight anchorage with loads of boats, that needs to be navigated through in order to make it to the dock. We managed to make it safely through the maze of boats and markers where John and Ziggy were waiting to help us tie up. It took a couple of attempts but, we tied up safely. As soon as possible we headed over to the pool for drinks.
We arrived when there was quite a swell and the wind was quite high. Not the best weather to be coming into the tight entrance. We managed to navigate through the reef and made it to the anchorage. This is a fairly tight anchorage with loads of boats, that needs to be navigated through in order to make it to the dock. We managed to make it safely through the maze of boats and markers where John and Ziggy were waiting to help us tie up. It took a couple of attempts but, we tied up safely. As soon as possible we headed over to the pool for drinks.
The following evening we went to dinner at Dick's for a farewell dinner, followed by night caps on WD40.
During our stay, Jordan and Paige met some lovely New Zealand friends. Shaun and I got on with their parents (Chris & Janine, Paul & Del). We have kept in touch with these guys since we were there.
On August 6 we headed back to Denarau, so that Naddia & Manuel could prepare themselves for their departure on August 9. Packing, weighing bags, repacking, and making tough decisions about what to bring and what to leave behind. It is an emotional process.
While we were back in Denarau we discovered a great way to travel, by bus. The buses cost a fraction of a taxi or the hop on hop off tourist buses. The buses do not take cash but, use a credit card type system. These e-transport cards can be purchased at many shops with varying amounts of money loaded on them. The buses in Denarau come every 20-30 minutes and head directly into Nadi town. There are other buses that can be caught in town to take you to other suburbs.
Once we were on the bus, it took 20 minutes to reach the town of Nadi. There are many bus stops along the way so, patience is key. Once in town we split up. Our family decided to find the artisan shops that we had heard about. I would say that there are approximately 30-40 stalls with local crafts, carvings, and jewelry. Look carefully as there are hidden gems amongst mediocre work. Just a warning, Nadi town shops shut by 5:00 pm so, it is recommended to visit before then.
While we were looking at the crafts, Naddia & Manuel found the fruit and veggie market. It is awesome! Reminiscent of our days in Turkey, the first in a long time. This is a great place to purchase the Kava root or powder. Kava is a very important tradition in the Fijian culture. From what we had read, the root is to be purchased and wrapped in a fairly current newspaper. When visiting any village, it is expected that a Kava root be presented to the chief. This is called a sevusevu (presentation offering). Here is a link that explains this a little better: https://fijihighcom.com/education-and-culture.
While we were back in Denarau we discovered a great way to travel, by bus. The buses cost a fraction of a taxi or the hop on hop off tourist buses. The buses do not take cash but, use a credit card type system. These e-transport cards can be purchased at many shops with varying amounts of money loaded on them. The buses in Denarau come every 20-30 minutes and head directly into Nadi town. There are other buses that can be caught in town to take you to other suburbs.
Once we were on the bus, it took 20 minutes to reach the town of Nadi. There are many bus stops along the way so, patience is key. Once in town we split up. Our family decided to find the artisan shops that we had heard about. I would say that there are approximately 30-40 stalls with local crafts, carvings, and jewelry. Look carefully as there are hidden gems amongst mediocre work. Just a warning, Nadi town shops shut by 5:00 pm so, it is recommended to visit before then.
While we were looking at the crafts, Naddia & Manuel found the fruit and veggie market. It is awesome! Reminiscent of our days in Turkey, the first in a long time. This is a great place to purchase the Kava root or powder. Kava is a very important tradition in the Fijian culture. From what we had read, the root is to be purchased and wrapped in a fairly current newspaper. When visiting any village, it is expected that a Kava root be presented to the chief. This is called a sevusevu (presentation offering). Here is a link that explains this a little better: https://fijihighcom.com/education-and-culture.
On August 9, after 9 months of living together, with plenty of memories, we unloaded all of Manuel and Naddia's belongings and walked them up to where they would grab a taxi that would take them to the airport. Farewells have not gotten easier, especially with people that have become like family.
When we had arrived in Fiji, Shaun had posted a note on Facebook. He quickly received a note from a former work colleague in Canada expressing urgency to get in touch with another of his colleagues. Sure enough, Shanil and his family were in town visiting his childhood home in Ba. We were able to connect with them, and were welcomed into their home as if we were family. We were treated to wonderful traditional Fijian fish soup and Indo Fijian cuisine.
When we had arrived in Fiji, Shaun had posted a note on Facebook. He quickly received a note from a former work colleague in Canada expressing urgency to get in touch with another of his colleagues. Sure enough, Shanil and his family were in town visiting his childhood home in Ba. We were able to connect with them, and were welcomed into their home as if we were family. We were treated to wonderful traditional Fijian fish soup and Indo Fijian cuisine.
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| artisan shops |
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| Indian Miner bird |
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| saying farewell |
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| on our way to Shanil's childhood home |
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| traditional Into Fijian meal with Shanil's family |
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| Paige holding a future meal |
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| toads |
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| the dinghy ride to Element to reciprocate their hospitality |
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| sitting with our new family |
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| dinner on land |
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| fire dancing |
On August 13 we departed Denarau for the northern Lau islands. On August 14, we arrived at Nairai island after an attempt at anchoring at the island of Gau. We rested here overnight and on August 15 we sailed overnight to Vanabalavu.
On August 16 - 20 we arrived at Vanabalavu and headed through the pass. (white land leading marks are slightly off as well as the line in navionics). We made our way along the island to the entrance of the Bay of Islands. A beautiful, tranquil place with the sounds of owls hooting. The mushroom islets and coral heads are interspersed amongst the small islands. We met another Catana owner sv Blue. As we were exploring close to their boat we found a colony of what we soon foundd out to be, Pacific flying foxes. There were hundreds of them. Squeaking and squawking similar to a pig or mouse. Their wingspan was impressive. Each evening at around 6:00 pm, they flew overhead. We went back twice to watch them. We felt like National Geographic researchers.
During our stay, Jordan and I pumped up the Manado kayak that had been gifted to us, and took a spin throughout the close mushroom islets. We saw 2 turtles and enjoyed the tranquility.
On August 20 we departed the Bay of Islands and sailed all day and night, and arrived on August 21
in Fulaga (Vulaga). We were treated to the beautiful sights of clear water and white sandy beaches. As we were arriving, Shaun radioed another boat to glean information about hazards and where we needed to present our sevusevu.
We dropped the main before entering the tight pass, in order to have more control of the boat. We were extremely happy that the conditions were calm because, the pass is narrow, with stunning clear water that rivals the Tuamotus. As we passed through, we waved at the people snorkeling in the pass.
As we headed left towards the anchorage we could see the small mushroom islets poking out of the turquoise water. We startled a ray as well as a small reef shark as we motored by.
As we headed left towards the anchorage we could see the small mushroom islets poking out of the turquoise water. We startled a ray as well as a small reef shark as we motored by.
Once we were settled, we dressed accordingly, and headed over to the village to present our very first sevusevu. This is an offering of kava root (we also were asked to pay 50 Fijian) to the village chief. The village chief then offers a prayer, and accepts visitors into their village, allowing us to walk freely on their lands, and in their village. Some ceremonies offer the kava drinking to their visitors.
After we were accepted into the village, we were taken on a tour around the village, and introduced to our "host" family. Our hosts names were, Sokey and Ba. We were offered tea and sticky buns while we visited. We found out that Sokey is the elected head man. He is responsible for discussing issues with governments and other tribes.
After we were accepted into the village, we were taken on a tour around the village, and introduced to our "host" family. Our hosts names were, Sokey and Ba. We were offered tea and sticky buns while we visited. We found out that Sokey is the elected head man. He is responsible for discussing issues with governments and other tribes.
During our visit, we started to hear laughter. We discovered, that the ladies "fashion" show/fund raiser had commenced. They were fundraising for glue for the year one classroom. We made our way over to watch as names were called and ladies danced/sashayed/sidled/wiggled up amongst laughter and clapping to donate their contributions. The men are seated separately at one end and the ladies at the other end.
The kava was flowing, and Shaun and I broke our kava virginity by knocking back a small amount of it. The brown "grog" is not super appealing to look at, and with a small call out to "Murphy" asking that we stay healthy after this experience, we downed the brown liquid. The taste is foreign and bitter. Our tongues and gums felt a tiny bit numb and that's about it.
The kava was flowing, and Shaun and I broke our kava virginity by knocking back a small amount of it. The brown "grog" is not super appealing to look at, and with a small call out to "Murphy" asking that we stay healthy after this experience, we downed the brown liquid. The taste is foreign and bitter. Our tongues and gums felt a tiny bit numb and that's about it.
Just as we were about to leave, and make the walk back to Element, Sokey presented us with a palm frond woven basket full of squash and sweet potatoes.
On the island, there are three villages, Manaceke (meaning edge top), Manara (meaning edge bottom), Koroloma (meaning middle). We visited the the middle village.
Sokey and Ba have, 11 piglets. They grow cassava, sweet potatoes, squash, cabbage, and papaya int their garden. Each family has a garden area. They are interspersed on the outside of the homes.
We decided to invite our host family over to Element for a meal. Shaun really wanted to share with them a meal that they had never tried. We agreed upon tacos followed by, banana bread. It was a hit. Ba requested the recipe for the banana bread. Shaun flew the drone, and we showed them the Bonaire mermaids video.
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| Shaun dressed in the traditional Fijian sulu |
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| the feast |
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| Paige drawing henna designs on a local girl in the village |
On August 29 we arrived in to Suva, in the dark. Luckily, s/v Dr. No was there to help us navigate through the mine field of sunken vessels. Wouter was kind enough to dinghy over and direct us to a safe place. We repaid his kindness the following day, with a bottle of Rum.
While in Suva, we had eye exams (Jordan needed glasses), and we had our medical exam for our Australian year long visa.
During our time in Suva, Shaun decided that I would fly back to Canada for 10 days to bring back some much needed boat parts before we arrived into Australia. Australia charges duty and taxes on any purchases over $900.00 AUD. The boat parts that we needed were well above this number, so the tickets were booked.
Once we were finished in Suva, we made our way back to Denarau to get me to my flight. I headed back to Canada, spent some time with my Mom, picked up the much needed items, and flew back to Fiji. No duties and taxes were charged. I even arrived on Jordan's birthday, September 17. I was only allowed to rest for a day or two before we departed and made our way to Vanuatu.
Follow our video adventures on our YouTube channel: Video adventures of s/v Element
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